A Fine Roast at Monkey Joe

March 29th, 2011

The owner of Monkey Joe Roasting Company, Gabe Cicale roasts beans for his wholesalers on Tuesday and Wednesday and for the store and its customers on a third day of the week. Almost a third of the business is wholesale, with deliveries made to some 20 restaurants and cafes, from Beacon to Stone Ridge, Marist College, UPAC, and other customers on Thursday. Monkey Joe’s has on the premises at any one time at least 35 kinds of beans, delivered in 132-pound burlap bags or wrapped in foil packets in cardboard boxes. “I always have three coffees from Ethiopia and usually a few Brazilians as well,” said Cicale. “Right now I’ve also got two from Guatemala and Indonesia.”

Whether the coffee will be drip brewed, used in espresso, or brewed in a French press all affect the degree of roasting, he said. Either he or Tom Delooza, an employee who has been trained in the roasting process, drop 20 to 30 pounds of beans into the drum of the steel red-enameled, gas-fired roaster, which reaches a temperature of 500 degrees.  The process takes from 15 to 19 minutes. “You need an ability to pay attention” so that the beans don’t get over-roasted, Cicale said. “For a period of time there’s not much to do, and then everything happens quickly.”

A small utensil housed in a pocket along the side of the roaster, called a trier, is used to sample the beans, to test the degree to which they are roasted, which also depends on the type of bean. The roasted beans are then dropped into the cooling bin, where a steel agitator—a bar attached to the screened bottom of the bin—stirs the beans to cool them. The beans are then poured into a collector bin through a gate that opens along the side of the roaster and packed into six-pound bags.

Cicale said afterwards his wife and business partner, Kathy Nealis, will “cup” the coffee—taste-test the brew made from a batch of beans. (He noted that there’s actually a certification process for the tasters—called cuppers—and a special etiquette: the process includes sniffing the coffee then pouring hot water over it in a special glass. The cupper then breaks the surface crust once the coffee “blooms” and sniffs it again before slurping it with a special spoon and spitting it out.)

“The general public is oblivious that this exists,” said Cicale, who has been in the business for twelve years. “I see so many career opportunities that exist in the coffee industry, yet people only find out about them by accident.” Coffee is akin to wine in the culture it has spawned, including a language of terms to describe nuances of taste: it has various degrees of “body,” “brightness,” and “citrus.” What’s his personal favorite? While Cicale said he said he used to be a big fan of Kenyan coffee, his current preference is for brews made from beans from Central America. “They produce a more balanced coffee,” he said.  —Lynn Woods

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Get Healthy at Colonial Health Food Store

February 21st, 2011

Colonial Health Food Center, located at 43 North Front St., is the oldest health food store in Ulster County. It has occupied its current storefront since 1961 (the business was founded in 1960) and was bought by current owner Natu Shah in 1986. Shah, a native of India, opened up a health food store in Poughkeepsie several months after immigrating to America in 1977, bringing an Indian tradition to the States just at the time when people started getting serious about eating whole foods and following a holistic health regime. It’s a trend that’s blossomed to become a way of life for many, and, despite the faded interior—actually charmingly retro, with its tin ceiling–Colonial has solidly kept up with the times.

The shelves are loaded with vitamins, protein supplements, organic drinks and dairy products, nuts, spices, teas, body lotions and oils, probiotics (flax seed oil, fish oil, and the like), shampoos, tinctures, cleaning products, you name it—altogether, more than 3,000 items, Shah estimated. (A spry 78-

Owner Natu Shah

year-old who could pass for 60, he’s a living testament to the healthfulness of his wares.) He noted the store carries several exclusive brands. They include Bio-Essence International, which makes an allergy, hay fever and sinus treatment that Colonial’s regular customers swear by, and Vita Therapy, whose vitamins are all natural, of course, and cost 20 percent less than other brands.

Manager Liz Hoffmann, who holds a degree in biology from the University of Texas and is unusually knowledgeable about the various elixirs on the shelves, points out a relatively new product, jars of human growth hormone made from deer antlers and stem cells. She said it helps the immune system and is popular with women. Another exotic product that she said bolsters up the body is bee pollen. “We are the cheapest health food store around and have a very eclectic selection,” said Hoffmann.

But Colonial offers much more than holistic health products. If you want to buy green, check out the Seventh Generation recyclable toilet paper and paper towels in the back. If you want to buy spices, flour, dried fruit, beans, nuts, honey or other whole food at a reasonable price, this is the place. The selection is phenomenal, with many of the items hand-packed in ziplock bags. There’s half a dozen kinds of cashew nuts—a good-sized bag is priced as low as $4.50—and bags of millet, quinoa, wheat berries, chickpea flour, red lentils and toor dal, a yellow lentil-like bean that Hoffmann said is particularly tasty. A jar of organic raw honey is just $3.99, or you can splurge and spent $20 for raw wanuka honey, which comes from Africa and contains an antiseptic; it can be both eaten and applied onto the skin.

You can grind your own peanut butter for $1.79 a pound (11 cents more if you don’t have a container). The raw snack items in the refrigerated shelves include a variety of nuggets sweetened with honey or berries and enriched with sunflower seeds or nuts–all tasty, healthy and affordable.  Colonial also stocks a variety of Indian foods. There are bags of curried cashews, bottles of curry sauces, loose curry leaves in a bag, chunks of raw jadgery sugar (rich in calcium and magnesium, according to the package) and frozen Indian dinners. Shah makes his own ghee—clarified butter, which has no butterfat—which is sold in small jars. The only thing Colonial doesn’t stock is produce (although it sells organic milk and free-range eggs). That lack is fulfilled half the year by the Kingston Farmers’ Market, which has been great for business, Shah said.

Even if health food stores aren’t your thing, if you love to eat and cook from scratch,  you’ll want to visit Colonial Health Food Center. Friendly, well stocked, it’s a throwback to the mom and pop stores when they were at their peak—and proof that their appeal never went out of date. —Lynn Woods

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Be My Special Valentine–in Kingston

February 9th, 2010

Whitworth Jewelers

Whether it’s flowers, chocolate, a special night out, or a diamond ring, every kind of Valentine’s Day gift can be found in Kingston. Uptown boosts two fine jewelry stores, Whitworth Jewelers, at 36 John St., and Schneiders Jewelers, at 290 Wall St. To celebrate Valentine’s Day, Whitworth is offering a 30 percent discount off a particular designer’s line, which includes colored stones or diamonds set in 14 or 18 carat gold pendants and rings, Wednesday through Saturday. Whitworth also carries high-end designs by Simon G and more affordable silver and 14-carat gold pieces by Tom Kruskak. A jeweler on the premises does ring sizing while you wait. Around the corner, at 290 Wall Street, Schneiders sells a variety of well-known brands at different price points, from the high-end Hearts on Fire diamonds to Pandora bracelets and links; an on-site jeweler does personalized engravings.

Across the street and down the block, Eddie Nekos makes cream-filled and chocolate candy in a shop next to his luncheonette, continuing a tradition started in 1896 (and also the subject of a story in The New Yorker in the 1980s). His chocolate-covered strawberries, raspberries and other fruits are in demand over the holiday; they cost $14 a dozen and should be reserved at least a day in advance. Nekos, who has been making candy since he was 12 years old, uses century-old molds to craft his chocolate hearts and rabbits, although he has  expanded the repertoire to include dinosaurs, guitars, Sesame Street characters, kewpie dolls, and even a computer and cell phone. Other popular gifts for that special someone are his chocolate hearts–priced from $2.50 to $14—and heart-shaped boxes of cream-filled candies. He’s open from 7 to 3 pm Monday through Saturday. 

Michael's Candy Corner

Midtown also has a traditional candy maker: Michael’s Candy Corner and Florist, which has occupied the corner of St. James and Broadway for 11 years. Owned and run by Michael and Frank Briglia, the business started in 1917 and sells a variety of chocolate and hard candies. Valentine’s Day is the busiest day in the year for sales of large boxes of candy, according to Michael. The chocolate-dipped strawberries sell out so be sure to order early; they are sold by the piece or the pound. The business also employs florist Sam DeGraf, so a shopper can purchase chocolates, flowers and greeting cards without having to step outside. Call 338-6782 to order. Open Monday through Saturday from 9 to 9, Sunday until 6.

At Frank Guido’s Little Italy, at 14 Thomas St., off Broadway near UPAC, you can be my Valentine the entire weekend. On Friday evening during the Happy Hour complimentary buffet, musicians Darryl McGill (lead singer of the Big Smoothies) and Ed Rrocks perform, followed by serenading violinists on Saturday and Sunday. Besides enjoying the specials, ladies get a special present: a gemstone in a little velvet bag, along with a 10 percent discount coupon for Kingston Fine Jewelers, at 207 Boices Lane. One of the stones is a genuine diamond. To find out which, you have to bring the stone to Kingston Fine Jewelers; after identifying the authentic diamond, the store will set it into a gold pendant with a value of $1,200. Those who don’t have the diamond can still enjoy the discount. Frank Guido’s serves dinner until 10 pm.

Flowres by Maria

Down in Rondout, Ship to Shore, at 15 West Strand, is offering a Valentine’s Day special on Friday and Sunday nights. Lobster and scallops are among the special ingredients, and the dessert includes chocolate dipped strawberries for two; for more mouth-watering details, go to www.shiptoshorehudsonvalley.com. For a one-of-a-kind gift for your sweetie, check out the vintage jewelry at Mezzanine Antiques Center, at 79 Broadway; they have a splendid selection of Victorian pieces as well as other fine gifts. A few blocks away, Flowers by Maria, at 90 Abeel St., sells the perfect dozen roses. The superior-quality flowers will last for days, reminding your sweetheart how much you love her (or him). Located in a restored 1850s firehouse, which has been featured in This Old House magazine, the floral shop has the “best roses in Kingston,” according to proprietor Maria Dijk. The arrangements are tasteful and unique, and she sells many other varieties. Order early by calling 339-0980 or on line at www.flowersbymaria.net.

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City of Cafés

February 2nd, 2010

Step aside, Seattle; we’re betting you can’t get a better cup of coffee than in Kingston. In the past decade, a delectable crop of specialty coffee bars and cafes have sprouted up in the city, proffering a rich variety of the best of the world’s coffees, be they a dark roast, flavored brew, organic, or decaf. The pastries and in some cases lunch entrees are home made, often baked on site, and the setting is congenial, with local artists’ work on the walls and comfy couches. Here’s a closer look at the city’s barista culture:

 Monkey Joe Roasting Company Inc., located in a charming, largely intact 1906 former oyster bar with tiled floor, tin ceiling and original wainscoting at 468 Broadway, is a European-style coffee bar that roasts its own beans, imbuing the air of Midtown with a distinctive fragrance. “We’re a single-origin roaster,” said co-owner Gabe Cicale, explaining that each coffee is from a particular region or farm. Monkey Joe sells coffee by the pound and also wholesales to restaurants, cafes and shops.

Gabe and Kathy from Monkey Joe's

In mid January, Monkey Joe was featured in the newsletter published by Terra Coffee, an internationally recognized sustainable coffee farm in Brazil. And this spring, its coffee will hit the big screen, with a product placement and credit in a new romantic comedy entitled Almost Perfect. Cicale said last October he met the producers of a film being shot in midtown Kingston, and he asked them if they ever catered coffee for the staff. By a strange coincidence, the next day he got a call from another producer based in New York asking whether Monkey Joe would supply the coffee for a film being shot in the Big Apple. “They liked the name, and they wanted to use a local company,” he said. Open Mon. through Fri., 6:30-6, and Sat. 7:30-4.

 Dolce, located at 27 Broadway in the Rondout, serves authentic Italian espresso—proprietor Alessandra Tecchio was born and raised in Italy—and coffee from local roaster Catskill Mountain Organic. Besides café au lait, latte, and other coffee drinks, she offers hot chocolate from her own mix, with homemade marshmallows. Tecchio bakes all her own tea breads, muffins, scones and cookies, and the lunch fare consists of crepes, sandwiches, soups and paninis. The brick walls are hung with the fauve paintings of Kingston scenes by local artist Todd Samara. Dolce is open Wed-Sun from 8am to 4pm.

Hudson Coffee Traders, at 288 Wall St., also features paintings by Samara, as well as a rotunda room (the space was a former bank) featuring revolving art shows. There’s free WIFI and the space is frequently used for meetings by local businesses. Co-owner Donna Brooks said she pays a premium for the single-origin coffees she gets from a micro roaster, which obtains the beans directly from the farm. There’s always a dark roast, and the selection reflects the different coffee growing seasons around the world. The baristas have to undergo several months of training to become masters of serving up the lattes, whose foam of steamed milk is embellished with a flower or fern-like design.

Hudson Coffee Traders

Hudson Coffee Traders also serves Harney & Sons teas, a Millerton-based tea company that wraps loose tea in a silk sachet, preserving its freshness in a paper packet. The scones and lemon bites are supplied by the Alternative Baker (formerly of Kingston, now in Rosendale), and the café serves egg wraps, sandwiches and soups. Open Mon.-Fri. 7-5:30, Sat. 8-4, Sun. 8-2.

Gabriel’s Café & Bakery, which occupies an old-fashioned store front and elegant, high ceilinged side room at 50 John St., is as popular for its food as for its coffee. Owner Gabe Vasquez, a native of Columbia, bakes all the bread and pastries, which includes croissants on Saturday, using organic flour and grains and free-range eggs. The huevas rancheros is served all day and is a favorite among regulars. The substantial lunch menu includes  specials, and Gabe said his is planning to offer more eclectic, Ltin American entries in the near future. Currently the photo montages of Maggie Sherwood, the late founder of the Floating Foundation of Photography, the iconic purple houseboat docked in Manhattan, are on display.  Open Mon.-Friday from 8:30-4:30 and Sat. from 9:30-3:30.

Dominick’s Café at Dream Weavers (the hair salon next door) occupies the corner of Wall and North Front Sts., its mirrored bar and spacious dining area a favorite place for locals and the occasional tourist to settle down over coffee or lunch with a newspaper. The desserts, biscotti and pastries are all made on the premises. Owner Dominick Vanacore said the coffee beans are obtained from Chris’s Coffee, a micro roaster based in Albany, and the daily selection always includes a dark roast.  The café also serves soups, paninis, and substantial lunch specials, such as turkey meatloaf with spinach and grilled chicken. Dominick’s also does catering, putting together lunches for visiting pharmaceutical reps at doctor’s offices and serving private parties up to 40 people.      Open Mon.-Sat., from 7:30 – 7 and Sun. from 9-4.

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